Drums Evoke a Small Sense of Fear

One of the first days in Porto-Novo, now two weeks ago, we were slated to go visit the local authorities. We packed into a white van. No seat belts, four to five people in a row, it is a typical trip in the Peace Corps. We are waiting to leave—again a typical trip in the Peace Corps—when we are told to quickly get out of the van, there is something we have to see. Entering the Davie entrance is what can only be described as a giant straw hut-like object. Underneath is a man, and it is walking toward us, making a chant-like noise. It is the equivalent of a god, in voodoo. We are told this one in particular guards the night. During the day he comes out, with his guide to bless the city and different areas, and keep them safe from crime. Apparently he also comes out very late at night I am told. At night though, no women are allowed to see them. We are given a serious precaution to not be outside when we hear the drumming of the phantom coming.

A week and a half later it is getting dark outside, and coming down the road right by my house is the phantom. I am outside the walls of my house talking with my Maman and Papa. I say, “J’ai peur.” My host parents laugh at me, and tell me not to be scared. My Papa tells me to hop into the voiture, and we follow the phantom. As we are driving past, he explains to me that I should only be scared of seeing him when it is very very late, like 1 a.m. or 2 a.m. in the morning.

The last two weekends I have woken up around 1 a.m. or 2 a.m. Both times I have heard the drumming of the voodoo parade—that of course is not a technical name. It is identified through very loud drumming, with undertones of shouting. Even from far away distances they can be heard. Although I have been inside both times this has happened, I have a great sense of fear. I think because I don’t know exactly what could happen if I was outside. I know violence might erupt, but no one really knows. The unknown is a curious concept for my brain to understand. At times the unknown stresses me out, perhaps because I am such a planner. I am planning on not being outside past midnight ever.